Guest house traffic is slowing down, it seems Kathmandu’s cold, grey and dusty winter is not too inviting for visitors. Even the most popular trekking routes are becoming quiet, and local, mountain villagers are heading down to lower altitude valleys to wait out the months of ice and snow. Days are short, mornings bring thick valley fog, with snow peaks rising above. Everyone is searching for some sunshine or huddling around little fires out in the lanes, and we increasingly layer up with coats and scarves. 

Many friends are joining in annual pilgrimages to home countries for holida